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Combed Ring-Spun Cotton: Why the Yarn Matters More Than the Country

, by Markus , 1 min reading time

Egyptian, Pima, Supima — the place name does most of the persuading and predicts the least. Why ring-spinning and combing matter more than geography.

Cotton marketing leans heavily on geography. Egyptian, Pima, Supima, Sea Island — the place name does most of the persuading, and it is often the least useful thing on the label.

What actually determines quality

Two things: the length of the fibre, and how it is spun. Geography matters only because certain regions historically grew longer-staple varieties. But a long-staple cotton spun badly makes worse fabric than a standard cotton spun well.

Ring-spun vs open-end

Open-end spinning is fast and cheap. It bundles fibres together with air, producing a coarser, weaker yarn. Most inexpensive blanks use it, and it is why a cheap tee feels slightly rough and starts pilling within weeks.

Ring-spinning twists and thins the yarn continuously as it is drawn out. The fibres align along the length of the yarn instead of tangling, which produces a finer, stronger, smoother thread. It takes longer and costs more.

What combing adds

Before spinning, combing pulls the fibres through fine teeth to remove short fibres and any remaining impurities. Short fibres are what work loose over time and become pills on the surface. Removing them at the start is the difference between a shirt that still looks right after two years and one that goes fuzzy across the chest.

Why we say what we say

Our fabrics are combed ring-spun cotton, and on much of the range, GOTS-certified organic combed ring-spun cotton. We do not use Egyptian cotton and we will not claim we do.

The reason is not that Egyptian cotton is bad. It is that the term is loosely policed, widely misapplied, and does less to predict how a garment will feel and last than the spinning method does. We would rather publish the number — 142, 237, 350 g/m² — and the yarn construction, because you can check those.

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